finger problem

My ring finger on my left hand has been hurting lately. It doesn't hurt to climb or stretch it. Only touching it between my knuckle and first joint is painful. So, I haven't taken it too seriously and it's been getting worse for a couple weeks. It might be time to cut back, take it easy and let this heal. Taping over the tender area seems to help as well.

day fo'

Day frickin' four. Four days on Hard Boiled. My relationship with this route has blossomed I feel. And I believe we are on the verge of a meaningful transition. Next weekend, on my fifth day courting its redpoint, I foresee Hard Boiled and I progressing into what I consider TOTAL HELL. I'm talking big falls, big screams, lots of cursing. Last weekend I climbed from the ground into the beginning of Hard Boiled's crux. Then I one-falled it. This was possibly my best go ever on this route. I got a little taste of the crux. From the ground, I reached from the first right-hand two-finger pocket to the next two-finger pocket from hell, whose next move is the first of Hard Boiled's two-move crux sequence. At that instant both my hands exploded from their respective two-finger pockets. Subsequent goes will put me within range of Hard Boiled's infamous crux. No doubt, things are getting interesting.

same route, different day

Saturday, day three of Tor season, felt like the first day of true Santa Maria rock climbing. Phil, Paul, and myself are all well into our respective projects. Phil is working on Buddhist Palm, and Paul and I are working Hard Boiled. Temperatures have been good. I need to lose weight. A lot of weight. Paul is already micro. I did, however, get a couple good burns on Hard Boiled this week. Good for day three anyways. Which is particularly amazing when one considers I weighed 194 lbs that day. This whole being huge thing has got to stop.

Santa Maria: day 2

If you weigh 195 lbs and your name isn't John Dunne, don't get trashed the night before going climbing in Santa Maria. Hard Boiled, the most miserable 40 ft of rock ever touched by a Hilti, makes me want to find a new sport. And oddly, this overhanging pile of misery feels no better when I'm hung over. What... ever. I watched King Lines. Its totally rad. Its the best climbing movie I've seen in years.

back to Hell

Saturday was our first day back to Santa Maria. Phil, Paul and I went to Mr. Lee's and we all got on Hard Boiled. I passionately hate this route. My right hand is completely maimed from it. While enjoying the crux on my second go up this masterpiece I punctured a pad on my middle finger and put a blood blister on my pinkie. It now hurts to brush my teeth. Fortunately, I think I put enough blood in the first right-hand two-finger pocket to make next weekend extra fun.

climbing with nuggets

So, I went climbing yesterday with Paul and he brought Laura Griffiths and Susánica Tam. This was my first time meeting either of them - both very cool nuggets. Had I known this would turn in to a six hour photo shoot at the Playground I probably would not have had as much to drink the night before. That's not really true. Regardless, Santa Barbara + bouldering + nuggets = rad. Laura talks a lot about clothes. I'm not really in to clothes.

movement

I've been climbing a long time and I always struggle with movement. Possibly because, as I evolve in the sport, the way I move inadvertantly changes. Nevertheless, my mind has to catch up. To visualize upcoming moves you must know what to expect from your body. I climb slow. Guys who climb slow think I climb slow. When I go to the Santa Barbara Zoo I love to watch the three-toed sloth. He makes me wish I could take 10 minutes to do a move, stop, think about stuff, do another move, stop, look around at stuff, do a move... But unfortunately I am human (technically) and maybe I climb too slow sometimes. The argument can be made that some moves are done much more efficiently with momentum. I try to remember, on my strongest climbing days, how I feel while I'm moving. Last week I had such a day. Everything felt easier. I felt lighter. Tension was effortless. Most importantly, slow, deliberate movements felt natural. To maximize such days would be huge. I believe training in a slow, deliberate way is more effective than slapping at holds. Try telling Mr. Sloth to pick up the pace. Exactly.