Wednesday, August 29, 2007

ripping holds from the wall

I've never been that guy that weighs 135 lbs (at least since I was 12) and runs effortless laps around the climbing gym. I currently weigh in the neighborhood of 195 lbs and watching me climb might be like watching a whale seizure. At least that's what it feels like when I break a hold and fall on my face. For example, last night at the shed I tore the bolt through the T-nut (I know, I didn't think this was possible either) of a new crimp. It exploded in a way that made me question whether I had been shot. Then I landed on my left elbow which hurt way bad for the rest of the night. But the interesting part came when I told Phil I broke his hold and hurt my arm because he said to me, "that's scary". That is scary. With all the effort I put in to training so that I can go out and be strong on the routes I love to get on, I had forgotten how much injuries hold me back. A person of my dimensions (fat) should be more careful. Especially in the gym. Chicks are not impressed by injuries sustained from plastic holds on a plywood wall over old mattresses. Fuck, I think I'm maturing.

Friday, August 24, 2007

Vertical Heaven

Been a while since I've gone to a climbing gym. They haven't changed. Last night I went to Vertical Heaven in Ventura. Didn't feel strong. Whatever.

Monday, August 20, 2007

same stuff

Not much new to report. I've been climbing four or five times a week at GVAC or Phil's shed. My shoulder feels fine to climb on. My recent focus has been to get out climbing as much as possible to get used to this volume of training. And I feel stronger. My weight is just below world climbing record level, about 195 lbs. So, in the past two months 10 pounds of me has inexplicably vanished, making climbing about 37 million times easier. This is probably due to the running (I hate running) and skin diving. At the shed, where I feel I get the best climbing strength conditioning, I've focused on putting up moderate routes I can send in a day or within the week. And I've been climbing by myself mostly, my favorite partner. In general climbing feels good lately - I'm pretty psyched on it.

Monday, August 6, 2007

rad weekend

Saturday I went spearfishing with Hawk at Hendry's Beach then met Paul and Kip at Skofield Park for some extra rad bouldering. Skofield was frickin great. I put a link to a map of it on the right. And Sunday I climbed for about 30 minutes at the shed. My new tactic of climbing with dudes I normally don't climb with at places I normally don't climb at has been good for me I think. Saturday at Skofield I sent a steep, reachy V6 in about 30 minutes and flashed a slopey, slabby V4. During this past month I have gotten more comfortable on a greater variety of climbs and improved my weakest areas, such as slab technique (why people still climb slabs is baffling) and maybe even a little endurance (maybe). Today is Monday and my shoulder had not hurt either of last weekend's two climbing days nor does it bother me today. This injury seems to present pain not during the activities that aggravate it but the following couple days. And bouldering hard does not seem to aggravate it.

Thursday, August 2, 2007

still weak

Climbed yesterday at the shed - it felt hard. I have not gotten stronger and the shed has not gotten easier. Although, my shoulder felt good.