Monday, September 24, 2007

Santa Maria: day 2

If you weigh 195 lbs and your name isn't John Dunne, don't get trashed the night before going climbing in Santa Maria. Hard Boiled, the most miserable 40 ft of rock ever touched by a Hilti, makes me want to find a new sport. And oddly, this overhanging pile of misery feels no better when I'm hung over. What... ever. I watched King Lines. Its totally rad. Its the best climbing movie I've seen in years.

Monday, September 17, 2007

back to Hell

Saturday was our first day back to Santa Maria. Phil, Paul and I went to Mr. Lee's and we all got on Hard Boiled. I passionately hate this route. My right hand is completely maimed from it. While enjoying the crux on my second go up this masterpiece I punctured a pad on my middle finger and put a blood blister on my pinkie. It now hurts to brush my teeth. Fortunately, I think I put enough blood in the first right-hand two-finger pocket to make next weekend extra fun.

Thursday, September 13, 2007

climbing with nuggets

So, I went climbing yesterday with Paul and he brought Laura Griffiths and Susánica Tam. This was my first time meeting either of them - both very cool nuggets. Had I known this would turn in to a six hour photo shoot at the Playground I probably would not have had as much to drink the night before. That's not really true. Regardless, Santa Barbara + bouldering + nuggets = rad. Laura talks a lot about clothes. I'm not really in to clothes.

Friday, September 7, 2007


I've been climbing a long time and I always struggle with movement. Possibly because, as I evolve in the sport, the way I move inadvertantly changes. Nevertheless, my mind has to catch up. To visualize upcoming moves you must know what to expect from your body. I climb slow. Guys who climb slow think I climb slow. When I go to the Santa Barbara Zoo I love to watch the three-toed sloth. He makes me wish I could take 10 minutes to do a move, stop, think about stuff, do another move, stop, look around at stuff, do a move... But unfortunately I am human (technically) and maybe I climb too slow sometimes. The argument can be made that some moves are done much more efficiently with momentum. I try to remember, on my strongest climbing days, how I feel while I'm moving. Last week I had such a day. Everything felt easier. I felt lighter. Tension was effortless. Most importantly, slow, deliberate movements felt natural. To maximize such days would be huge. I believe training in a slow, deliberate way is more effective than slapping at holds. Try telling Mr. Sloth to pick up the pace. Exactly.