Tuesday, December 30, 2008

a snowball's chance


If you needed to ship a Christmas package to my Mom's house, there's a snowball's chance in Hell it got there on time. My Mom lives on Whidbey Island, in Northwestern Washington State. She lives on a lake, on an island, in the Puget Sound (aka: the Pacific Ocean). You will drive far from civilization and ride a ferry before arriving here. And though most years it doesn't snow, there was 14 inches on the ground last week. So the pansies at UPS decided, despite Elijah's considerable investment in shipping costs, they would delay delivery until after Hanukkah.

Anywayz. It's cold here. My Mom doesn't believe in heating the downstairs of homes so my room is about 50 degrees Fahrenheit. No worries, this has provided an opportunity for me to try out some warm clothes and train for cold weather climbing at Joshua Tree. Taking this week off from my normal climbing/swimming routine has me planning for the upcoming season. In fact, there's a plan in the works to get over to Joshua Tree the day I arrive back in Santa Barbara. Which reminds me - Micah, Andy and Justin, I'm going to Joshua Tree this Friday and you need to get in on that. I'm losing feeling in my fingers now. In the larger picture of next climbing season, I want to focus on a single hard route, one that will leave me satisfied with my progression within the sport, a 5.14. I'm pretty psyched about it. It's gonna suck and be rad at the same time. My motivation since the hospital has paid dividends to my climbing already and I'm way more psyched now.

I climbed with my step-brother at the Everett Vertical World gym Sunday. It was rad because we got on these thin, slightly overhanging top-rope routes but pulled the top-rope to lead them. Rad because no thought was given to leading, making clips exciting and falls spicy. Two thumbs up for an otherwise unremarkable climbing gym. Maybe I shouldn't say that. I don't know. There's just not enough steep stuff there. But climbing is partly what you make of it I guess, and I did have a great time, so whatever. There's a snowball's chance I'll move back here for the climbing though.

Saturday, December 20, 2008

more failure, please

I failed 3 more times on Atreyu, spit off at the crux thrice. Not very rad. Then I spent about 2 hours making 1 hold on the new route. There was failure all around at the Tor Saturday. Justin had at least a couple fits after peeling off the top of Power like 6 times. Phil did some easy laps and had fun probably, redpointing 7 routes and falling on Auto Magic mid-eighth. So maybe Phil opted out of the failure-athon. That's OK, I failed enough for the both of us.

Thursday, December 18, 2008

let's not forget...

how rad Malcolm Smith is. And Splinter is a rad video:

Saturday, December 13, 2008

it'll be a cold day in Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree got groped by Jason, Marcela and me last weekend. Temps were a tad on the chilly side, around 40-ish, and the wind brought some ferociousness. Marcela's tent got shredded the first night, but fortunately it snowed the next evening. My companions weren't super psyched. I got on Desert Shield and a couple head pieces I want to lead but whose names I forgot. Desert Shield is great. I think I can redpoint that sucker pretty quick. It's kinda crimpy but steep with long moves so a send should come together after a day or two, I would think.

Saturday, December 6, 2008

Déjà vu

More falls on Atreyu. I got to fall 3 more times at the crux. And since Phil forgot to bring the battery for his drill, I didn't do any work on the new route either. All in all I'd say it was a pretty productive day.

Micah, Andy and I went to Green Dome the next day (hence the photo). It was OK, blew Andy's mind.