Monday, August 25, 2008

no Tor last weekend

IMG_1043Instead of Tor Saturday, I had Shed Sunday. Marcela cranked with me at the Shed in the evening. It was good. I felt strong, got on a couple projects, made progress. This two, and now three, days a week at the Shed is hard on the old tendons. Hopefully this makes a stronger, better me.

Thursday, August 21, 2008

Painted Cave

Because it's one of the few local bouldering spots not touched by the Gap Fire, Painted Cave was my best option for a quick evening session after work yesterday. And it reminded me how far I have yet to go to be a good boulderer. I'm maybe the wussiest person I know when it comes to topping out high stuff. It's pathetic. Heavy Traffic, or whatever the variation I got on is called, had me bailing out at the mantle. Yeah, the mantle, just like the mantle that sits on top of almost every boulder problem in the world. And because of a little height, that really wasn't even that bad, I didn't finish the thing. Then I bailed off the top of whatever V-jugs is accross the road. Impressive, No? Note to self: stop being a pansie. You promised Mom you wouldn't go back to the hospital this year and that's fine. Don't fall. You won't fall because it's not hard, you're just being a pansie.

Monday, August 18, 2008

wish every day could be Saturday?

I don't. That would mean I throw myself on Tor routes 7 days a week. One day is enough. Especially when it's a volume day. Last Saturday was such a day. 5 redpoints. 8 laps.
da routes

  • Power of Eating (5.11d) - redpoint
  • Auto Magic (5.12a) - redpoint
  • The Natural (5.12c) - redpoint
  • No Skill (5.12c) - redpoint
  • Better Than Chips (5.12d) - redpoint
  • Hell of the Upside Down Sinners (5.12b) - 1 fall
    • I grabbed the chains. Yep.
  • Anchor Punch (5.12a) - 1 fall
    • At this point I'm just pissed. So, I didn't really care. Waited about 10 minutes after Hell before starting up this gem.
  • When the Sea Doesn't Want You (5.12a) - 2 falls
    • 2 falls. Not caring at all at this point. Waited 10 minutes, tops, between Anchor Punch and this. Obviously, I still had tons of energy. Unstoppable, really.

Monday, August 11, 2008

you don't have to wonder what the worst route in Santa Maria is

It's called The Natural. It's super short, has a super awkward one-move crux, and it sucks. And it shut me down on Saturday. Four times. Micah and Elhanan went to the Tor with me. That made things cool. If not for them, had I been left alone to epically flail on stupid Natural, I would not have had a good day. Micah sent Auto Magic with ease, first go of the day, his first redpoint of this route and maybe of this grade. That's kind of amazing since he boulders stupid hard. Elhanan just looked good. my numbers:

  • Power of Eating (5.11d) - redpoint
  • Auto Magic (5.12a) - redpoint
  • 4 x The Natural (5.12c) - falls at the crux
  • Better Than Chips (5.12d) - clipped the last draw and took
  • Anchor Punch (5.12a) - redpoint
  • When the Sea Doesn't Want You (5.12a) - redpoint
also on Saturday: rodeo clipping (watch your ladies)

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

straight to the (Green) Dome

We climbed at Green Dome on Sunday.
check it: operation crankola

Monday, August 4, 2008

welcome back, failure

Fresh on the heels of last weeks redpoint extravaganza, was this weeks's typically grim Saturday Tor session. In my defense, it was hot and I got on some new routes (new to my volume training routine anyway), The Natural and Hell of the Upside Down Sinners. Jud witnessed Owl Tor, in all her glory, for his first time. No doubt, the pleasure is all his. Marcela made a defiant appearance despite the Tor's attempt on her life 2 weeks earlier. Continuing his recent trend of substantial weekly progress, Justin linked large sections of Power of Eating and dialed in the bottom of When the Sea Doesn't Want You. Phil too looked leagues better this Saturday compared to last, this his second day back. my routine:

  • Power of Eating (5.11d) - redpoint
  • Auto Magic (5.12a) - redpoint
  • The Natural (5.12c) - fell at the crux
    • I remember now why this is commonly known as Santa Maria's worst route. Truly ridiculous.
  • Hell of the Upside Down Sinners (5.12b) - redpoint
    • Good burn. I haven't been on this in a couple months and haven't redpointed it this year. It was a bit of a fight.
  • Better Than Chips (5.12d) - fell at the crimp after the jugs
    • After mysteriously falling right after leaving the Chips jugs I decided to give up on the BTL finish for a new sequence in to Pro Skill. It's hard. And weird.
  • Anchor Punch (5.12a) - 1 fall at the crux

Friday, August 1, 2008

more Shed, please

This was the first week in months (like 6 months, I think) that I trained twice at the Shed. No agenda, just wanted to get adjusted to the Tuesday/Thursday thing again. So, I took things real slow, kept the volume low and had fun. Both days felt good, Tuesday better than Thursday, obviously. But after a slow warm up on Thursday I got things going a little. I put up a new route, at least. And today my hands are feeling it. Good training but a volume to be cautious about.